laptop repair in GTA/Markham?
So, my laptop won't turn on today and it's likely due to a coffee spill that happened yesterday. I suspect a trace on the board may have become corroded. I took it to the ASUS repair centre on Markham and the absolute minimum cost to repair it would probably be $400 and if I want to keep everything on my SSD I would need to remove it first (but I don't have the necessary torx bits to do that). I think they only swap parts out and don't attempt to actually repair. Does anyone know of a good and reputable repair place that would be able to fix a corroded trace on the board if that's all it is? It's an Asus Zenbook UX305C.
I'd try buying the correct torx screwdriver sizes at CanTire and take it apart myself. Then clean and put back together. On Wed, 9 Jan 2019 at 10:20, Tim Tisdall via talk <talk@gtalug.org> wrote:
So, my laptop won't turn on today and it's likely due to a coffee spill that happened yesterday. I suspect a trace on the board may have become corroded. I took it to the ASUS repair centre on Markham and the absolute minimum cost to repair it would probably be $400 and if I want to keep everything on my SSD I would need to remove it first (but I don't have the necessary torx bits to do that). I think they only swap parts out and don't attempt to actually repair.
Does anyone know of a good and reputable repair place that would be able to fix a corroded trace on the board if that's all it is? It's an Asus Zenbook UX305C. --- Talk Mailing List talk@gtalug.org https://gtalug.org/mailman/listinfo/talk
I second grabbing the torx screwdriver. I got a cheap(ish) multi-bit screwdriver kit at Princess Auto and it has been great for fixing things like that. It may not be a corroded trace but it may still just be wet inside and the coffee and water would happily conduct. If you take the board out and can a bit of clean water can be used to flush the wet parts. Also things like keyboards don't take kindly to dirty water under the keys. On 1/9/19 10:22 AM, Don Tai via talk wrote:
I'd try buying the correct torx screwdriver sizes at CanTire and take it apart myself. Then clean and put back together.
On Wed, 9 Jan 2019 at 10:20, Tim Tisdall via talk <talk@gtalug.org <mailto:talk@gtalug.org>> wrote:
So, my laptop won't turn on today and it's likely due to a coffee spill that happened yesterday. I suspect a trace on the board may have become corroded. I took it to the ASUS repair centre on Markham and the absolute minimum cost to repair it would probably be $400 and if I want to keep everything on my SSD I would need to remove it first (but I don't have the necessary torx bits to do that). I think they only swap parts out and don't attempt to actually repair.
Does anyone know of a good and reputable repair place that would be able to fix a corroded trace on the board if that's all it is? It's an Asus Zenbook UX305C. --- Talk Mailing List talk@gtalug.org <mailto:talk@gtalug.org> https://gtalug.org/mailman/listinfo/talk
--- Talk Mailing List talk@gtalug.org https://gtalug.org/mailman/listinfo/talk
-- Alvin Starr || land: (905)513-7688 Netvel Inc. || Cell: (416)806-0133 alvin@netvel.net ||
There used to be a good little laptop repair shop at https://goo.gl/maps/APtaLkcY4262 Eglington west of the Allan expressway. I see two little PC places there, but they aren't familiar... Google lists lots of places, including one called "laptopwash.ca" (;-)) --dave On 2019-01-09 10:30 a.m., Alvin Starr via talk wrote: I second grabbing the torx screwdriver. I got a cheap(ish) multi-bit screwdriver kit at Princess Auto and it has been great for fixing things like that. It may not be a corroded trace but it may still just be wet inside and the coffee and water would happily conduct. If you take the board out and can a bit of clean water can be used to flush the wet parts. Also things like keyboards don't take kindly to dirty water under the keys. On 1/9/19 10:22 AM, Don Tai via talk wrote: I'd try buying the correct torx screwdriver sizes at CanTire and take it apart myself. Then clean and put back together. On Wed, 9 Jan 2019 at 10:20, Tim Tisdall via talk <talk@gtalug.org<mailto:talk@gtalug.org>> wrote: So, my laptop won't turn on today and it's likely due to a coffee spill that happened yesterday. I suspect a trace on the board may have become corroded. I took it to the ASUS repair centre on Markham and the absolute minimum cost to repair it would probably be $400 and if I want to keep everything on my SSD I would need to remove it first (but I don't have the necessary torx bits to do that). I think they only swap parts out and don't attempt to actually repair. Does anyone know of a good and reputable repair place that would be able to fix a corroded trace on the board if that's all it is? It's an Asus Zenbook UX305C. --- Talk Mailing List talk@gtalug.org<mailto:talk@gtalug.org> https://gtalug.org/mailman/listinfo/talk --- Talk Mailing List talk@gtalug.org<mailto:talk@gtalug.org> https://gtalug.org/mailman/listinfo/talk -- Alvin Starr || land: (905)513-7688 Netvel Inc. || Cell: (416)806-0133 alvin@netvel.net<mailto:alvin@netvel.net> || --- Talk Mailing List talk@gtalug.org<mailto:talk@gtalug.org> https://gtalug.org/mailman/listinfo/talk -- David Collier-Brown, | Always do right. This will gratify System Programmer and Author | some people and astonish the rest dave.collier-brown@indexexchange.com<mailto:dave.collier-brown@indexexchange.com> | -- Mark Twain CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE AND DISCLAIMER : This telecommunication, including any and all attachments, contains confidential information intended only for the person(s) to whom it is addressed. Any dissemination, distribution, copying or disclosure is strictly prohibited and is not a waiver of confidentiality. If you have received this telecommunication in error, please notify the sender immediately by return electronic mail and delete the message from your inbox and deleted items folders. This telecommunication does not constitute an express or implied agreement to conduct transactions by electronic means, nor does it constitute a contract offer, a contract amendment or an acceptance of a contract offer. Contract terms contained in this telecommunication are subject to legal review and the completion of formal documentation and are not binding until same is confirmed in writing and has been signed by an authorized signatory.
I usually remove all connections, ensure everything is clean, then carefully reinstall everything. Do people actually do traces and try to solder? These are tiny components. I use a multimeter to ensure connections are electrically sound, and that is it. Sometimes for a loose connector such as a USB I'll heat up the connectors enough to resolder itself, but not hot enough to remove connections. I know of no place that does more than troubleshoot and swap parts. On Wed, 9 Jan 2019 at 10:55, Dave Collier-Brown via talk <talk@gtalug.org> wrote:
There used to be a good little laptop repair shop at https://goo.gl/maps/APtaLkcY4262 Eglington west of the Allan expressway. I see two little PC places there, but they aren't familiar...
Google lists lots of places, including one called "laptopwash.ca" (;-))
--dave On 2019-01-09 10:30 a.m., Alvin Starr via talk wrote:
I second grabbing the torx screwdriver.
I got a cheap(ish) multi-bit screwdriver kit at Princess Auto and it has been great for fixing things like that.
It may not be a corroded trace but it may still just be wet inside and the coffee and water would happily conduct.
If you take the board out and can a bit of clean water can be used to flush the wet parts.
Also things like keyboards don't take kindly to dirty water under the keys. On 1/9/19 10:22 AM, Don Tai via talk wrote:
I'd try buying the correct torx screwdriver sizes at CanTire and take it apart myself. Then clean and put back together.
On Wed, 9 Jan 2019 at 10:20, Tim Tisdall via talk <talk@gtalug.org> wrote:
So, my laptop won't turn on today and it's likely due to a coffee spill that happened yesterday. I suspect a trace on the board may have become corroded. I took it to the ASUS repair centre on Markham and the absolute minimum cost to repair it would probably be $400 and if I want to keep everything on my SSD I would need to remove it first (but I don't have the necessary torx bits to do that). I think they only swap parts out and don't attempt to actually repair.
Does anyone know of a good and reputable repair place that would be able to fix a corroded trace on the board if that's all it is? It's an Asus Zenbook UX305C. --- Talk Mailing List talk@gtalug.org https://gtalug.org/mailman/listinfo/talk
--- Talk Mailing Listtalk@gtalug.orghttps://gtalug.org/mailman/listinfo/talk
-- Alvin Starr || land: (905)513-7688 Netvel Inc. || Cell: (416)806-0133alvin@netvel.net ||
--- Talk Mailing Listtalk@gtalug.orghttps://gtalug.org/mailman/listinfo/talk
-- David Collier-Brown, | Always do right. This will gratify System Programmer and Author | some people and astonish the restdave.collier-brown@indexexchange.com | -- Mark Twain
*CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE AND DISCLAIMER** : This telecommunication, including any and all attachments, contains confidential information intended only for the person(s) to whom it is addressed. Any dissemination, distribution, copying or disclosure is strictly prohibited and is not a waiver of confidentiality. If you have received this telecommunication in error, please notify the sender immediately by return electronic mail and delete the message from your inbox and deleted items folders. This telecommunication does not constitute an express or implied agreement to conduct transactions by electronic means, nor does it constitute a contract offer, a contract amendment or an acceptance of a contract offer. Contract terms contained in this telecommunication are subject to legal review and the completion of formal documentation and are not binding until same is confirmed in writing and has been signed by an authorized signatory.* --- Talk Mailing List talk@gtalug.org https://gtalug.org/mailman/listinfo/talk
On 01/09/2019 11:01 AM, Don Tai via talk wrote:
I usually remove all connections, ensure everything is clean, then carefully reinstall everything. Do people actually do traces and try to solder? These are tiny components. I use a multimeter to ensure connections are electrically sound, and that is it. Sometimes for a loose connector such as a USB I'll heat up the connectors enough to resolder itself, but not hot enough to remove connections.
I have often repaired circuit boards, including with the surface mount devices. However, given the cost of consumer devices, it's often not worth the effort. When working on computers that could cost as much as a house, as I used to do, it's a different matter.
On Wed, Jan 09, 2019 at 11:01:54AM -0500, Don Tai via talk wrote:
I usually remove all connections, ensure everything is clean, then carefully reinstall everything. Do people actually do traces and try to solder? These are tiny components. I use a multimeter to ensure connections are electrically sound, and that is it. Sometimes for a loose connector such as a USB I'll heat up the connectors enough to resolder itself, but not hot enough to remove connections.
I know of no place that does more than troubleshoot and swap parts.
Look up Louis Rossmann on youtube if you want to see what kind of repairs are in fact possible today and not that big a deal. he runs a repair shop in new york fixing a lot of things apple says can't be fixed as well as cell phones and other such things. He can't be the only one doing that. -- Len Sorensen
On Wed, 9 Jan 2019 at 12:08, Lennart Sorensen via talk <talk@gtalug.org> wrote:
Look up Louis Rossmann on youtube if you want to see what kind of repairs are in fact possible today and not that big a deal.
Yeah, those videos are exactly why I was looking for someone who does what he does. But it does seem to be a rare thing. I think my issue may just be the keyboard, but I don't think it's possible to open that part (and, of course, it's underneath everything else just to see if it's even possible). I miss the days where the keyboard could be pulled out from the top without having to even open the casing.
The keyboard is usually connected to the motherboard with a ribbon, and the touchpad with another ribbon. Stuff might have gotten into the connector and gummed it up. Carefully remove the ribbon from the motherboard, clean and reinstall. On Wed, 9 Jan 2019 at 13:03, Tim Tisdall via talk <talk@gtalug.org> wrote:
On Wed, 9 Jan 2019 at 12:08, Lennart Sorensen via talk <talk@gtalug.org> wrote:
Look up Louis Rossmann on youtube if you want to see what kind of repairs are in fact possible today and not that big a deal.
Yeah, those videos are exactly why I was looking for someone who does what he does. But it does seem to be a rare thing. I think my issue may just be the keyboard, but I don't think it's possible to open that part (and, of course, it's underneath everything else just to see if it's even possible). I miss the days where the keyboard could be pulled out from the top without having to even open the casing. --- Talk Mailing List talk@gtalug.org https://gtalug.org/mailman/listinfo/talk
On Wed, Jan 09, 2019 at 01:02:52PM -0500, Tim Tisdall wrote:
Yeah, those videos are exactly why I was looking for someone who does what he does. But it does seem to be a rare thing. I think my issue may just be the keyboard, but I don't think it's possible to open that part (and, of course, it's underneath everything else just to see if it's even possible). I miss the days where the keyboard could be pulled out from the top without having to even open the casing.
Pretty sure that is still how the keyboard is swapped on a thinkpad. I guess they could have changed it in the last few years since I last bought one. -- Len Sorensen
On Wed, 9 Jan 2019 at 10:22, Don Tai via talk <talk@gtalug.org> wrote:
I'd try buying the correct torx screwdriver sizes at CanTire and take it apart myself. Then clean and put back together.
Yeah, I actually ordered a set weeks ago to repair my phone and the tracking says it arrived at the airport on Christmas day. So, one should be arriving at my house any day now, but who knows how long. It seems the 66 piece set at Canadian Tire is on sale again for $20. I KNOW if I buy it that the other set will arrive this evening. However, if I do that and it still won't turn on afterwards can anyone recommend someone who's able to do actual repairs (such as fixing traces or surface connections). I have a soldering iron and multi-meter, but not sure I want to risk it myself.
On 01/09/2019 10:22 AM, Don Tai via talk wrote:
I'd try buying the correct torx screwdriver sizes at CanTire and take it apart myself. Then clean and put back together.
They're also available at Sayal and probably many other places. As for repairing, depending on what happened, it may be possible to rinse in hot water. I used to often wash circuit boards in it, back when I was a computer tech (working on mini computers). As for repair shops replacing, rather than repairing, that's pretty much necessary, given the complexity of today's devices. Trouble shooting takes time and with the cost of tech time and overhead, it doesn't take long to reach the cost of a new device.
Looks like a pretty easy disassembly: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2JRasaPnTU8 Asus Zenbook UX305C. On Wed, 9 Jan 2019 at 10:20, Tim Tisdall via talk <talk@gtalug.org> wrote:
So, my laptop won't turn on today and it's likely due to a coffee spill that happened yesterday. I suspect a trace on the board may have become corroded. I took it to the ASUS repair centre on Markham and the absolute minimum cost to repair it would probably be $400 and if I want to keep everything on my SSD I would need to remove it first (but I don't have the necessary torx bits to do that). I think they only swap parts out and don't attempt to actually repair.
Does anyone know of a good and reputable repair place that would be able to fix a corroded trace on the board if that's all it is? It's an Asus Zenbook UX305C. --- Talk Mailing List talk@gtalug.org https://gtalug.org/mailman/listinfo/talk
On Wed, 9 Jan 2019 10:19:55 -0500 Tim Tisdall via talk <talk@gtalug.org> wrote:
Does anyone know of a good and reputable repair place that would be able to fix a corroded trace on the board if that's all it is? It's an Asus Zenbook UX305C.
Tim, I do not like the idea of my computer and hard driving being in the possession of someone I do not know or trust. I strongly advise reading the do-it-yourself suggestions, above. -- Howard Gibson hgibson@eol.ca jhowardgibson@gmail.com http://home.eol.ca/~hgibson
Hi Tim. On Wed, 9 Jan 2019 at 10:20, Tim Tisdall via talk <talk@gtalug.org> wrote:
So, my laptop won't turn on today and it's likely due to a coffee spill that happened yesterday. I suspect a trace on the board may have become corroded. I took it to the ASUS repair centre on Markham and the absolute minimum cost to repair it would probably be $400 and if I want to keep everything on my SSD I would need to remove it first (but I don't have the necessary torx bits to do that). I think they only swap parts out and don't attempt to actually repair.
Does anyone know of a good and reputable repair place that would be able to fix a corroded trace on the board if that's all it is? It's an Asus Zenbook UX305C.
I worked for Repair Cafe for a long time (up until mid-2017), doing repairs on desktops and laptops. It was ... educational. If you know how to use the soldering iron you own, you're already just as qualified as most of the people who run those small laptop repair shops. Most of them will do what I did at Repair Cafe: watch a YouTube video, take the thing apart, look for obvious disconnections, clean things, reassemble it and hope it works. Those that are actually "qualified" to work on specific computers (ie. have been trained by the computer manufacturers and deeply understand the inner workings of specific parts) are A) rare, and B) so expensive it's cheaper to replace your computer rather than repair it. You'll notice I didn't actually suggest using the soldering iron: that's very unlikely to come up. As others have mentioned, current circuit boards have traces so small they're exceedingly difficult to work with. You replace the whole board (or the whole laptop!) by preference. So get that torx kit (they're cheap, and if you bust a tip you won't mind having two sets), take the computer apart, clean it, and reassemble it. This is what the repair shop you could afford would do, but you'll do it with more care because it's your computer. If you don't have the time for that, then perhaps you have money: pull the hard drive and move the data to a new machine. I'm guessing this isn't what you wanted to hear. Since it's the approach I take, you can probably guess I don't know of any repair shops because I don't use them. I apologize for both these things ... it's the best I've got. I own the exact same laptop and I love it - it's worth investing at least some effort in. Good luck. -- Giles https://www.gilesorr.com/ gilesorr@gmail.com
Sorry for the top post, but on my phone right now... I bought the torx set and opened it up (thanks for the video which showed the 2 hidden screws). I can't see anything out of the ordinary and everything is dry on the bottom side. I was hoping to at least get my data off, but the SSD uses a M.2 interface which requires buying some sort of adapter. I'll take it apart some more and see if I find anything... On Wed, Jan 9, 2019, 12:12 PM Giles Orr via talk <talk@gtalug.org wrote:
Hi Tim.
On Wed, 9 Jan 2019 at 10:20, Tim Tisdall via talk <talk@gtalug.org> wrote:
So, my laptop won't turn on today and it's likely due to a coffee spill that happened yesterday. I suspect a trace on the board may have become corroded. I took it to the ASUS repair centre on Markham and the absolute minimum cost to repair it would probably be $400 and if I want to keep everything on my SSD I would need to remove it first (but I don't have the necessary torx bits to do that). I think they only swap parts out and don't attempt to actually repair.
Does anyone know of a good and reputable repair place that would be able to fix a corroded trace on the board if that's all it is? It's an Asus Zenbook UX305C.
I worked for Repair Cafe for a long time (up until mid-2017), doing repairs on desktops and laptops. It was ... educational. If you know how to use the soldering iron you own, you're already just as qualified as most of the people who run those small laptop repair shops. Most of them will do what I did at Repair Cafe: watch a YouTube video, take the thing apart, look for obvious disconnections, clean things, reassemble it and hope it works. Those that are actually "qualified" to work on specific computers (ie. have been trained by the computer manufacturers and deeply understand the inner workings of specific parts) are A) rare, and B) so expensive it's cheaper to replace your computer rather than repair it.
You'll notice I didn't actually suggest using the soldering iron: that's very unlikely to come up. As others have mentioned, current circuit boards have traces so small they're exceedingly difficult to work with. You replace the whole board (or the whole laptop!) by preference.
So get that torx kit (they're cheap, and if you bust a tip you won't mind having two sets), take the computer apart, clean it, and reassemble it. This is what the repair shop you could afford would do, but you'll do it with more care because it's your computer. If you don't have the time for that, then perhaps you have money: pull the hard drive and move the data to a new machine.
I'm guessing this isn't what you wanted to hear. Since it's the approach I take, you can probably guess I don't know of any repair shops because I don't use them. I apologize for both these things ... it's the best I've got.
I own the exact same laptop and I love it - it's worth investing at least some effort in. Good luck.
-- Giles https://www.gilesorr.com/ gilesorr@gmail.com --- Talk Mailing List talk@gtalug.org https://gtalug.org/mailman/listinfo/talk
On Wed, Jan 09, 2019 at 12:24:36PM -0500, Tim Tisdall via talk wrote:
Sorry for the top post, but on my phone right now...
I bought the torx set and opened it up (thanks for the video which showed the 2 hidden screws). I can't see anything out of the ordinary and everything is dry on the bottom side. I was hoping to at least get my data off, but the SSD uses a M.2 interface which requires buying some sort of adapter.
I'll take it apart some more and see if I find anything...
Hmm, M.2 PCIe or M.2 SATA? -- Len Sorensen
| From: Tim Tisdall via talk <talk@gtalug.org> | I was hoping to at least get my data | off, but the SSD uses a M.2 interface which requires buying some sort of | adapter. m.2 sockets really common now. Older ones are m.2 SATA. Your notebook is old enough that I'm 90% sure it would be m.2 SATA. Newer computers have m.2 NVMe sockets. Those will accept m.2 SATA devices anyway. There's a third class that I don't understand: M.2 AHCI. Many modern desktop motherboards have m.2 slots. Starting, I think, with the Intel 7th gen (7xxx) or perhaps 8th gen (8xxx). It's not that they couldn't do it sooner but it got compelling when NVMe became available: a lot faster than SATA. Just for fun, here's the cheapest one I've found on newegg.ca (not a recommendation): <https://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813144164> Inconveniently for you, most notebooks with m.2 sockets don't have another disk interface. And they are awkward to open. Adapter cards for a desktop are about $25 and up: <https://www.newegg.ca/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&DEPA=0&Order=BESTMATCH&Description=m.2+to+pcie+adapter&ignorear=0&N=-1&isNodeId=1> Summary: m.2 sockets are common. Recommendation: remove the drive from your computer. You don't want any of your experiments to damage your data.
On Wed, Jan 09, 2019 at 10:40:08PM -0500, D. Hugh Redelmeier via talk wrote:
m.2 sockets really common now.
Older ones are m.2 SATA. Your notebook is old enough that I'm 90% sure it would be m.2 SATA.
Newer computers have m.2 NVMe sockets. Those will accept m.2 SATA devices anyway.
There's a third class that I don't understand: M.2 AHCI.
I think that would be PCIe attached like NVMe but with an integrated AHCI PCIe interface so older OSs can talk to it without having NVMe support. Of course that kills the performance benefits of NVMe, but does add compatibility.
Many modern desktop motherboards have m.2 slots. Starting, I think, with the Intel 7th gen (7xxx) or perhaps 8th gen (8xxx). It's not that they couldn't do it sooner but it got compelling when NVMe became available: a lot faster than SATA. Just for fun, here's the cheapest one I've found on newegg.ca (not a recommendation): <https://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813144164>
Inconveniently for you, most notebooks with m.2 sockets don't have another disk interface. And they are awkward to open.
Adapter cards for a desktop are about $25 and up: <https://www.newegg.ca/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&DEPA=0&Order=BESTMATCH&Description=m.2+to+pcie+adapter&ignorear=0&N=-1&isNodeId=1>
Summary: m.2 sockets are common.
Recommendation: remove the drive from your computer. You don't want any of your experiments to damage your data.
Yes accessing an M.2 drive isn't that hard these days. -- Len Sorensen
Switching tactics, can you get to BIOS? Can you boot to something like Ubuntu with a USB key? The coffee and the boot issue might be coincidental. Remove the battery (see video) and see if you can start up with a brick. On Wed, 9 Jan 2019 at 10:20, Tim Tisdall via talk <talk@gtalug.org> wrote:
So, my laptop won't turn on today and it's likely due to a coffee spill that happened yesterday. I suspect a trace on the board may have become corroded. I took it to the ASUS repair centre on Markham and the absolute minimum cost to repair it would probably be $400 and if I want to keep everything on my SSD I would need to remove it first (but I don't have the necessary torx bits to do that). I think they only swap parts out and don't attempt to actually repair.
Does anyone know of a good and reputable repair place that would be able to fix a corroded trace on the board if that's all it is? It's an Asus Zenbook UX305C. --- Talk Mailing List talk@gtalug.org https://gtalug.org/mailman/listinfo/talk
On Wed, 9 Jan 2019 at 13:04, Don Tai via talk <talk@gtalug.org> wrote:
Switching tactics, can you get to BIOS? Can you boot to something like Ubuntu with a USB key? The coffee and the boot issue might be coincidental. Remove the battery (see video) and see if you can start up with a brick.
It won't even start. The power button is a regular key on the keyboard and has a back light to indicate that it's on. I press it and nothing at all happens. I tried unplugging the battery and powering it like in the video, but nothing happens. I think the device doesn't actually power on without a battery and alternates between the power light and the wifi light like in the video when the battery is disconnected. I don't even get that. The only thing I do get is the light on the side to indicate that the battery is being charged when the power is plugged in. If the battery is disconnected then the light is orange instead of white. In response to your other email: There's no evidence of anything getting near the ribbon connector for the keyboard. I think liquid may have gotten inside the keyboard and it's preventing it from detecting the power button key press. Unfortunately, it seems like the keyboard is actually fused together with the case and it's not possible to open. I wish I knew which pins to connect on the keyboard connector to simulate pressing the power button to test that theory.
If keyboard is a regular button, is it possible that the keyboard is shorted out along with power button and that's why laptop does't start. It's is not actually dead? On Wed, Jan 9, 2019, 13:44 Tim Tisdall via talk <talk@gtalug.org> wrote:
On Wed, 9 Jan 2019 at 13:04, Don Tai via talk <talk@gtalug.org> wrote:
Switching tactics, can you get to BIOS? Can you boot to something like Ubuntu with a USB key? The coffee and the boot issue might be coincidental. Remove the battery (see video) and see if you can start up with a brick.
It won't even start. The power button is a regular key on the keyboard and has a back light to indicate that it's on. I press it and nothing at all happens. I tried unplugging the battery and powering it like in the video, but nothing happens. I think the device doesn't actually power on without a battery and alternates between the power light and the wifi light like in the video when the battery is disconnected. I don't even get that.
The only thing I do get is the light on the side to indicate that the battery is being charged when the power is plugged in. If the battery is disconnected then the light is orange instead of white.
In response to your other email: There's no evidence of anything getting near the ribbon connector for the keyboard. I think liquid may have gotten inside the keyboard and it's preventing it from detecting the power button key press. Unfortunately, it seems like the keyboard is actually fused together with the case and it's not possible to open. I wish I knew which pins to connect on the keyboard connector to simulate pressing the power button to test that theory. --- Talk Mailing List talk@gtalug.org https://gtalug.org/mailman/listinfo/talk
I think so. After the spill, I continued to use the computer for 6hrs without issue. The issue only happened after turning it off and trying to turn it on again the following day. However, I didn't notice any issues typing. On Wed, Jan 9, 2019, 1:48 PM Alex Volkov <avolkov@gmail.com wrote:
If keyboard is a regular button, is it possible that the keyboard is shorted out along with power button and that's why laptop does't start. It's is not actually dead?
On Wed, Jan 9, 2019, 13:44 Tim Tisdall via talk <talk@gtalug.org> wrote:
On Wed, 9 Jan 2019 at 13:04, Don Tai via talk <talk@gtalug.org> wrote:
Switching tactics, can you get to BIOS? Can you boot to something like Ubuntu with a USB key? The coffee and the boot issue might be coincidental. Remove the battery (see video) and see if you can start up with a brick.
It won't even start. The power button is a regular key on the keyboard and has a back light to indicate that it's on. I press it and nothing at all happens. I tried unplugging the battery and powering it like in the video, but nothing happens. I think the device doesn't actually power on without a battery and alternates between the power light and the wifi light like in the video when the battery is disconnected. I don't even get that.
The only thing I do get is the light on the side to indicate that the battery is being charged when the power is plugged in. If the battery is disconnected then the light is orange instead of white.
In response to your other email: There's no evidence of anything getting near the ribbon connector for the keyboard. I think liquid may have gotten inside the keyboard and it's preventing it from detecting the power button key press. Unfortunately, it seems like the keyboard is actually fused together with the case and it's not possible to open. I wish I knew which pins to connect on the keyboard connector to simulate pressing the power button to test that theory. --- Talk Mailing List talk@gtalug.org https://gtalug.org/mailman/listinfo/talk
On January 9, 2019 2:05:18 PM EST, Tim Tisdall via talk <talk@gtalug.org> wrote:
I think so. After the spill, I continued to use the computer for 6hrs without issue. The issue only happened after turning it off and trying to turn it on again the following day. However, I didn't notice any issues typing.
On Wed, Jan 9, 2019, 1:48 PM Alex Volkov <avolkov@gmail.com wrote:
If keyboard is a regular button, is it possible that the keyboard is shorted out along with power button and that's why laptop does't start. It's is not actually dead?
It seems so after reading this, I don't know about shorting the pins on the motherboard that connect to the power button. Perhaps that will turn it on or is it just a cable for the whole keyboard as if thats the case, try a new keyboard or power button. Nick
On Wed, Jan 9, 2019, 13:44 Tim Tisdall via talk <talk@gtalug.org> wrote:
Switching tactics, can you get to BIOS? Can you boot to something
On Wed, 9 Jan 2019 at 13:04, Don Tai via talk <talk@gtalug.org> wrote: like Ubuntu with a USB key? The coffee and the boot issue might be coincidental. Remove the battery (see video) and see if you can start up with a brick.
It won't even start. The power button is a regular key on the keyboard and has a back light to indicate that it's on. I press it and nothing at all happens. I tried unplugging the battery and powering it like in the video, but nothing happens. I think the device doesn't actually power on without a battery and alternates between the power light and the wifi light like in the video when the battery is disconnected. I don't even get that.
The only thing I do get is the light on the side to indicate that the battery is being charged when the power is plugged in. If the battery is disconnected then the light is orange instead of white.
In response to your other email: There's no evidence of anything getting near the ribbon connector for the keyboard. I think liquid may have gotten inside the keyboard and it's preventing it from detecting the power button key press. Unfortunately, it seems like the keyboard is actually fused together with the case and it's not possible to open. I wish I knew which pins to connect on the keyboard connector to simulate pressing the power button to test that theory. --- Talk Mailing List talk@gtalug.org https://gtalug.org/mailman/listinfo/talk
-- Sent from my Android device with K-9 Mail. Please excuse my brevity.
I would try to remove the keyboard from the motherboard and somehow clean it. There must be some way to remove the keyboard. Your laptop at this point is dead, so you might as well try aggressive methods of removal. On Wed, 9 Jan 2019 at 14:39, Nicholas Krause via talk <talk@gtalug.org> wrote:
On January 9, 2019 2:05:18 PM EST, Tim Tisdall via talk <talk@gtalug.org> wrote:
I think so. After the spill, I continued to use the computer for 6hrs without issue. The issue only happened after turning it off and trying to turn it on again the following day. However, I didn't notice any issues typing.
On Wed, Jan 9, 2019, 1:48 PM Alex Volkov <avolkov@gmail.com wrote:
If keyboard is a regular button, is it possible that the keyboard is shorted out along with power button and that's why laptop does't start. It's is not actually dead?
It seems so after reading this, I don't know about shorting the pins on the motherboard that connect to the power button. Perhaps that will turn it on or is it just a cable for the whole keyboard as if thats the case, try a new keyboard or power button. Nick
On Wed, Jan 9, 2019, 13:44 Tim Tisdall via talk <talk@gtalug.org> wrote:
Switching tactics, can you get to BIOS? Can you boot to something
On Wed, 9 Jan 2019 at 13:04, Don Tai via talk <talk@gtalug.org> wrote: like Ubuntu with a USB key? The coffee and the boot issue might be coincidental. Remove the battery (see video) and see if you can start up with a brick.
It won't even start. The power button is a regular key on the keyboard and has a back light to indicate that it's on. I press it and nothing at all happens. I tried unplugging the battery and powering it like in the video, but nothing happens. I think the device doesn't actually power on without a battery and alternates between the power light and the wifi light like in the video when the battery is disconnected. I don't even get that.
The only thing I do get is the light on the side to indicate that the battery is being charged when the power is plugged in. If the battery is disconnected then the light is orange instead of white.
In response to your other email: There's no evidence of anything getting near the ribbon connector for the keyboard. I think liquid may have gotten inside the keyboard and it's preventing it from detecting the power button key press. Unfortunately, it seems like the keyboard is actually fused together with the case and it's not possible to open. I wish I knew which pins to connect on the keyboard connector to simulate pressing the power button to test that theory. --- Talk Mailing List talk@gtalug.org https://gtalug.org/mailman/listinfo/talk
-- Sent from my Android device with K-9 Mail. Please excuse my brevity. --- Talk Mailing List talk@gtalug.org https://gtalug.org/mailman/listinfo/talk
On 2019-01-09 2:05 p.m., Tim Tisdall via talk wrote:
I think so. After the spill, I continued to use the computer for 6hrs without issue.
I think you may have baked everything on by doing this. Usual procedure for nasty spills like this is shutdown quick as possible, hoick the battery out, flip the machine on the side to get some drainage, get the HD out then hope you have enough distilled water to flush everything out. Leave it for a couple of weeks to dry and it might just power on. Stewart
On Wed, Jan 09, 2019 at 01:48:30PM -0500, Alex Volkov via talk wrote:
If keyboard is a regular button, is it possible that the keyboard is shorted out along with power button and that's why laptop does't start. It's is not actually dead?
My guess is it's opposite. That is, coffee dried up and is now coating the contacts of power button. Anyways, I concur with others. Disassemble, clean, rinse, dry, and reassemble. -- William Park <opengeometry@yahoo.ca>
So! I managed to get the computer on and confirm that the issue appears to be the power button. What I did was unplug the battery and the BIOS battery and then when I plugged in the power the default is for it to immediately turn on. After I got it running I was able to confirm that the power button doesn't register a key press but EVERY OTHER BUTTON DOES WORK. If any other key broke then at least I could use an external keyboard until I was able to get replacement parts. Thanks to everyone for suggestions! I had assumed that the keyboard was fused to the casing as I couldn't find any screws (hopefully it's obvious how to remove it after removing the motherboard, etc). The individual keys poke through the metal casing and requires removing the motherboard and everything else first to access. To reply to some emails... The drive is a Micron M600 and it says on it m.2 SATA. I didn't even know that was a thing until opening the laptop. The drive booted fine so I'm not going to bother buying an enclosure for it, but they have ones at Canada Computers for around $20. Hugh, I really appreciate the offer to help backup the drive! Thank you! Lennart, thanks for linking to that keyboard replacement otherwise I probably would have continued to erroneously believe that the keyboard wasn't replaceable without replacing the casing! A lot of laptops still allow keyboard replacement from the front through tabs, but some other ones (like mine) don't have that convenience. It seems to be a design decision. Stewart, I'll be sure to do what you suggested if I ever spill on it again. At the time I didn't have the screwdrivers so I wouldn't have been able to remove the battery, but at least I could have put it upside-down or on it's side to prevent gravity from seeping in any moisture. I also bought a can of compressed air that I can use next time to help blow some of the liquid out.
If you do not see screws or plastic snaps, then they might use double sided tape. Slowly pry apart. FYI my old Lenovo Thinkpad has liquid drainage holes from the keyboard right through to the back of the bottom casing. I have not tested this feature. On Thu, 10 Jan 2019 at 11:17, Tim Tisdall via talk <talk@gtalug.org> wrote:
So! I managed to get the computer on and confirm that the issue appears to be the power button. What I did was unplug the battery and the BIOS battery and then when I plugged in the power the default is for it to immediately turn on. After I got it running I was able to confirm that the power button doesn't register a key press but EVERY OTHER BUTTON DOES WORK. If any other key broke then at least I could use an external keyboard until I was able to get replacement parts.
Thanks to everyone for suggestions! I had assumed that the keyboard was fused to the casing as I couldn't find any screws (hopefully it's obvious how to remove it after removing the motherboard, etc). The individual keys poke through the metal casing and requires removing the motherboard and everything else first to access.
To reply to some emails...
The drive is a Micron M600 and it says on it m.2 SATA. I didn't even know that was a thing until opening the laptop. The drive booted fine so I'm not going to bother buying an enclosure for it, but they have ones at Canada Computers for around $20.
Hugh, I really appreciate the offer to help backup the drive! Thank you!
Lennart, thanks for linking to that keyboard replacement otherwise I probably would have continued to erroneously believe that the keyboard wasn't replaceable without replacing the casing! A lot of laptops still allow keyboard replacement from the front through tabs, but some other ones (like mine) don't have that convenience. It seems to be a design decision.
Stewart, I'll be sure to do what you suggested if I ever spill on it again. At the time I didn't have the screwdrivers so I wouldn't have been able to remove the battery, but at least I could have put it upside-down or on it's side to prevent gravity from seeping in any moisture. I also bought a can of compressed air that I can use next time to help blow some of the liquid out. --- Talk Mailing List talk@gtalug.org https://gtalug.org/mailman/listinfo/talk
On Thu, 10 Jan 2019 at 11:23, Don Tai <dontai.canada@gmail.com> wrote:
If you do not see screws or plastic snaps, then they might use double sided tape. Slowly pry apart.
FYI my old Lenovo Thinkpad has liquid drainage holes from the keyboard right through to the back of the bottom casing. I have not tested this feature.
I really hope it's not glue/tape. I remember seeing a video where they tested those drainage holes. I think part of their conclusion was that it worked well, but only if the laptop remained flat. If you tilt the laptop then liquid may go through other spots other than the spill channels. It's like a shallow plate with holes, if you tilt it then it'll go up and over the sides instead of through the holes. (If I'm remembering the video correctly)
I have an asus of a similar design and the keys actually pop off. They were a pain to get back together but you may be able to pry off the power button and clean the contact. This may be of some general help. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Txx05fh41z4 On 1/10/19 11:17 AM, Tim Tisdall via talk wrote:
So! I managed to get the computer on and confirm that the issue appears to be the power button. What I did was unplug the battery and the BIOS battery and then when I plugged in the power the default is for it to immediately turn on. After I got it running I was able to confirm that the power button doesn't register a key press but EVERY OTHER BUTTON DOES WORK. If any other key broke then at least I could use an external keyboard until I was able to get replacement parts.
Thanks to everyone for suggestions! I had assumed that the keyboard was fused to the casing as I couldn't find any screws (hopefully it's obvious how to remove it after removing the motherboard, etc). The individual keys poke through the metal casing and requires removing the motherboard and everything else first to access.
To reply to some emails...
The drive is a Micron M600 and it says on it m.2 SATA. I didn't even know that was a thing until opening the laptop. The drive booted fine so I'm not going to bother buying an enclosure for it, but they have ones at Canada Computers for around $20.
Hugh, I really appreciate the offer to help backup the drive! Thank you!
Lennart, thanks for linking to that keyboard replacement otherwise I probably would have continued to erroneously believe that the keyboard wasn't replaceable without replacing the casing! A lot of laptops still allow keyboard replacement from the front through tabs, but some other ones (like mine) don't have that convenience. It seems to be a design decision.
Stewart, I'll be sure to do what you suggested if I ever spill on it again. At the time I didn't have the screwdrivers so I wouldn't have been able to remove the battery, but at least I could have put it upside-down or on it's side to prevent gravity from seeping in any moisture. I also bought a can of compressed air that I can use next time to help blow some of the liquid out. --- Talk Mailing List talk@gtalug.org https://gtalug.org/mailman/listinfo/talk
-- Alvin Starr || land: (905)513-7688 Netvel Inc. || Cell: (416)806-0133 alvin@netvel.net ||
On Thu, 10 Jan 2019 at 11:40, Alvin Starr via talk <talk@gtalug.org> wrote:
I have an asus of a similar design and the keys actually pop off.
They were a pain to get back together but you may be able to pry off the power button and clean the contact.
This may be of some general help. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Txx05fh41z4
I actually did pop off the key yesterday and spent about an hour to get it back on without breaking it. I didn't see anything that needed cleaning and the rubber "cup" that acts as a spring seemed to be glued and not removable. That video seemed to show a better way of getting the key caps back on, though, so I'll definitely refer to it next time a key cap pops off (I have one slightly broken key because I wasn't careful enough in the past). Thanks! I've fixed a keyboard in the past where the wiring is basically a traces on multiple plastic sheets. A keypress in registered when the traces on the two different sheets make contact through holes in another sheet where the buttons are. With the keyboard I fixed, I was able to separate the sheets and fix the trace with some conducting paint (you can buy it at an auto repair shop to replace the heating lines on the back window of a car). However, almost every newer keyboard glues those sheets together and makes it impossible to clean or fix those traces. The one I have seems to have a metal backing and melted plastic rivets holding it together.
Interesting way to fix keyboard traces. I've never done that but will look next time a keyboard goes bad. With unsalvageable keyboards I cut up the transparent sheets and use them as small notebook covers. They have a cool high tech look. With the spare keys you can play fun spelling games with kids. On Thu, 10 Jan 2019 at 11:56, Tim Tisdall via talk <talk@gtalug.org> wrote:
On Thu, 10 Jan 2019 at 11:40, Alvin Starr via talk <talk@gtalug.org> wrote:
I have an asus of a similar design and the keys actually pop off.
They were a pain to get back together but you may be able to pry off the power button and clean the contact.
This may be of some general help. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Txx05fh41z4
I actually did pop off the key yesterday and spent about an hour to get it back on without breaking it. I didn't see anything that needed cleaning and the rubber "cup" that acts as a spring seemed to be glued and not removable. That video seemed to show a better way of getting the key caps back on, though, so I'll definitely refer to it next time a key cap pops off (I have one slightly broken key because I wasn't careful enough in the past). Thanks!
I've fixed a keyboard in the past where the wiring is basically a traces on multiple plastic sheets. A keypress in registered when the traces on the two different sheets make contact through holes in another sheet where the buttons are. With the keyboard I fixed, I was able to separate the sheets and fix the trace with some conducting paint (you can buy it at an auto repair shop to replace the heating lines on the back window of a car). However, almost every newer keyboard glues those sheets together and makes it impossible to clean or fix those traces. The one I have seems to have a metal backing and melted plastic rivets holding it together. --- Talk Mailing List talk@gtalug.org https://gtalug.org/mailman/listinfo/talk
On Thu, 10 Jan 2019 at 13:22, Don Tai <dontai.canada@gmail.com> wrote:
Interesting way to fix keyboard traces. I've never done that but will look next time a keyboard goes bad. With unsalvageable keyboards I cut up the transparent sheets and use them as small notebook covers. They have a cool high tech look. With the spare keys you can play fun spelling games with kids.
Here's the website (well, archived copy of the site) that gave repair instructions when I fixed that keyboard long long ago: https://web.archive.org/web/20070205062418/http://www.technology.niagarac.on...
On Thu, Jan 10, 2019 at 11:17:09AM -0500, Tim Tisdall via talk wrote:
So! I managed to get the computer on and confirm that the issue appears to be the power button. What I did was unplug the battery and the BIOS battery and then when I plugged in the power the default is for it to immediately turn on. After I got it running I was able to confirm that the power button doesn't register a key press but EVERY OTHER BUTTON DOES WORK. If any other key broke then at least I could use an external keyboard until I was able to get replacement parts.
Thanks to everyone for suggestions! I had assumed that the keyboard was fused to the casing as I couldn't find any screws (hopefully it's obvious how to remove it after removing the motherboard, etc). The individual keys poke through the metal casing and requires removing the motherboard and everything else first to access.
To reply to some emails...
The drive is a Micron M600 and it says on it m.2 SATA. I didn't even know that was a thing until opening the laptop. The drive booted fine so I'm not going to bother buying an enclosure for it, but they have ones at Canada Computers for around $20.
Hugh, I really appreciate the offer to help backup the drive! Thank you!
Lennart, thanks for linking to that keyboard replacement otherwise I probably would have continued to erroneously believe that the keyboard wasn't replaceable without replacing the casing! A lot of laptops still allow keyboard replacement from the front through tabs, but some other ones (like mine) don't have that convenience. It seems to be a design decision.
Business oriented machines tend to be faster and simpler to swap parts on than consumer oriented models. Business tends to value 'quick to fix' over 'slightly smaller and lighter and cheaper'. After all if your IT guy can swap a broken keyboard in 5 minutes, life is good and you can get back to work.
Stewart, I'll be sure to do what you suggested if I ever spill on it again. At the time I didn't have the screwdrivers so I wouldn't have been able to remove the battery, but at least I could have put it upside-down or on it's side to prevent gravity from seeping in any moisture. I also bought a can of compressed air that I can use next time to help blow some of the liquid out.
I have never tested the thinkpad's liquid draining feature on the keyboard, but I guess it would have been useful in this case. :) -- Len Sorensen
I removed the battery again and took a closer look at the keyboard. It's definitely melted plastic rivets holding it to a plastic framing that everything else screws into. I really don't want to start cutting into plastic. (here's a video of someone cutting and glue-gunning in a replacement: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tUnwW1mQ6aI) It seems like a few places sell the casing with the keyboard (https://www.ebay.com/itm/US-keyboard-for-Asus-ZenBook-UX305CA-UX305FA-Dark-G...) so I'll look around and see who best to order that from. There's so many models and sub-models that I need to be very careful with which one I order. I tried calling ASUS to see how much they'd charge for a repair and they want a whopping $540 to just replace the keyboard.
OMG This is a new low for non-serviceable tech. I hope I never have to use a knife and glue gun to repair a keyboard. On Thu, 10 Jan 2019 at 14:14, Tim Tisdall via talk <talk@gtalug.org> wrote:
I removed the battery again and took a closer look at the keyboard. It's definitely melted plastic rivets holding it to a plastic framing that everything else screws into. I really don't want to start cutting into plastic. (here's a video of someone cutting and glue-gunning in a replacement: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tUnwW1mQ6aI) It seems like a few places sell the casing with the keyboard ( https://www.ebay.com/itm/US-keyboard-for-Asus-ZenBook-UX305CA-UX305FA-Dark-G... ) so I'll look around and see who best to order that from. There's so many models and sub-models that I need to be very careful with which one I order.
I tried calling ASUS to see how much they'd charge for a repair and they want a whopping $540 to just replace the keyboard. --- Talk Mailing List talk@gtalug.org https://gtalug.org/mailman/listinfo/talk
On Thu, Jan 10, 2019 at 02:14:19PM -0500, Tim Tisdall via talk wrote:
I removed the battery again and took a closer look at the keyboard. It's definitely melted plastic rivets holding it to a plastic framing that everything else screws into. I really don't want to start cutting into plastic. (here's a video of someone cutting and glue-gunning in a replacement: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tUnwW1mQ6aI) It seems like a few places sell the casing with the keyboard (https://www.ebay.com/itm/US-keyboard-for-Asus-ZenBook-UX305CA-UX305FA-Dark-G...) so I'll look around and see who best to order that from. There's so many models and sub-models that I need to be very careful with which one I order.
I tried calling ASUS to see how much they'd charge for a repair and they want a whopping $540 to just replace the keyboard.
https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Asus+Zenbook+UX303L+Keyboard+Replacement/53551 shows how to replace the keyboard on the 303 which might be similar to the 305. I must admit that looks like a terrible job. -- Len Sorensen
In case anyone is interested... I managed to find a seller on eBay who sold the case with the keyboard for about $50. So, whenever it comes, I'll move all the components over to the new case and then hopefully have a fully working unit again. Thanks again to everyone who responded with advice!
I've taken apart two laptop keyboards in an effort to clean them. Both times I ended up buying a replacement keyboard. Once you've got a laptop keyboard pried apart the traces, especially the ones where the rubber key bumps go, are exposed and extremely fragile. I only took mine apart because the keyboards were already non-functional anyway. Got replacements at Computer Recycling (Kitchener) for about $5.00 each. You may want to try HacklabTO or FreeGeek Toronto for lovingly used parts... --Bob. On 2019-01-10 2:14 p.m., Tim Tisdall via talk wrote:
I removed the battery again and took a closer look at the keyboard. It's definitely melted plastic rivets holding it to a plastic framing that everything else screws into. I really don't want to start cutting into plastic. (here's a video of someone cutting and glue-gunning in a replacement: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tUnwW1mQ6aI) It seems like a few places sell the casing with the keyboard (https://www.ebay.com/itm/US-keyboard-for-Asus-ZenBook-UX305CA-UX305FA-Dark-G...) so I'll look around and see who best to order that from. There's so many models and sub-models that I need to be very careful with which one I order.
I tried calling ASUS to see how much they'd charge for a repair and they want a whopping $540 to just replace the keyboard. --- Talk Mailing List talk@gtalug.org https://gtalug.org/mailman/listinfo/talk
-- Bob Jonkman <bjonkman@sobac.com> Phone: +1-519-635-9413 SOBAC Microcomputer Services http://sobac.com/sobac/ Software --- Office & Business Automation --- Consulting GnuPG Fngrprnt:04F7 742B 8F54 C40A E115 26C2 B912 89B0 D2CC E5EA
On Wed, Jan 09, 2019 at 01:44:38PM -0500, Tim Tisdall via talk wrote:
It won't even start. The power button is a regular key on the keyboard and has a back light to indicate that it's on. I press it and nothing at all happens. I tried unplugging the battery and powering it like in the video, but nothing happens. I think the device doesn't actually power on without a battery and alternates between the power light and the wifi light like in the video when the battery is disconnected. I don't even get that.
The only thing I do get is the light on the side to indicate that the battery is being charged when the power is plugged in. If the battery is disconnected then the light is orange instead of white.
In response to your other email: There's no evidence of anything getting near the ribbon connector for the keyboard. I think liquid may have gotten inside the keyboard and it's preventing it from detecting the power button key press. Unfortunately, it seems like the keyboard is actually fused together with the case and it's not possible to open. I wish I knew which pins to connect on the keyboard connector to simulate pressing the power button to test that theory.
Well replacement keyboards do exist if that is the problem: https://laptopparts.ca/products/asus-zenbook-ux305-ux305ca-ux305fa-ux305ua-u... I wonder if someone like http://nptechnologies.ca/ would do reasonable repairs or at least be able to say what the problem is. I found this list too some of which sound potentially useful: https://www.blogto.com/tech/2016/09/the_top_10_computer_repair_shops_in_toro... -- Len Sorensen
participants (14)
-
Alex Volkov -
Alvin Starr -
Bob Jonkman -
D. Hugh Redelmeier -
Dave Collier-Brown -
Don Tai -
Giles Orr -
Howard Gibson -
James Knott -
lsorense＠csclub.uwaterloo.ca -
Stewart C. Russell -
Tim Tisdall -
William Park -
xerofoify＠gmail.com