simple plug & play ethernet splitters?
Hi wise folks, I likely found my goal at amazon, say a tp-links unit, but if it is common enough where I could just dance into say a Canada computers, that would be preferred. Basically I seek a simple classic plug and play Ethernet splitter, say with 4 or 5 ports. something that does not require software, even fanless will work. I am hoping once I also find a quality power bar, to connect equipment that is on the other side of my home studio from my desk. Everything I personally use has standard Ethernet ports, with my hoping to set things up once, no removing cables and the like. Am I picturing this correctly, and is there a simple place I can get one inexpensively? Thanks, Karen
On Wed, Aug 07, 2024 at 12:31:55AM -0400, Karen Lewellen via talk wrote:
Hi wise folks, I likely found my goal at amazon, say a tp-links unit, but if it is common enough where I could just dance into say a Canada computers, that would be preferred. Basically I seek a simple classic plug and play Ethernet splitter, say with 4 or 5 ports. something that does not require software, even fanless will work. I am hoping once I also find a quality power bar, to connect equipment that is on the other side of my home studio from my desk. Everything I personally use has standard Ethernet ports, with my hoping to set things up once, no removing cables and the like. Am I picturing this correctly, and is there a simple place I can get one inexpensively?
Well canada computers has a 5 port gigabit ethernet switch for $30. Nothing to configure, you just have to connect the power supply and plug in network cables. So one port for the existing connection and then one port for each device you want to connect, using standard network cables. Make sure you have enough network cables of the length you need to reach, and preferably not make any tripping hazards. The one I saw at canada computers was tp-link TL-SG105E although I think there are multiple choices available. They appear to be in stock at most locations. They certainly also have lots of power bars both with and without surge protectors. Not sure which ones make most sense. At least for UPSs I have always had good luck with APC, so I suspect their power bars with surge protection are probably good too, but I have never used them. -- Len Sorensen
Hi Len, I actually have an APC power bar with serge protector powering my computer setup right now. Profoundly good quality, so will likely stick with that brand, even if not quite choosing the Mercedes I have already for the second one. And the tp-links one you located seems like one of the ones from Amazon as well. Thanks for the network cable reminders. Cheers, Karen On Wed, 7 Aug 2024, Lennart Sorensen wrote:
On Wed, Aug 07, 2024 at 12:31:55AM -0400, Karen Lewellen via talk wrote:
Hi wise folks, I likely found my goal at amazon, say a tp-links unit, but if it is common enough where I could just dance into say a Canada computers, that would be preferred. Basically I seek a simple classic plug and play Ethernet splitter, say with 4 or 5 ports. something that does not require software, even fanless will work. I am hoping once I also find a quality power bar, to connect equipment that is on the other side of my home studio from my desk. Everything I personally use has standard Ethernet ports, with my hoping to set things up once, no removing cables and the like. Am I picturing this correctly, and is there a simple place I can get one inexpensively?
Well canada computers has a 5 port gigabit ethernet switch for $30. Nothing to configure, you just have to connect the power supply and plug in network cables. So one port for the existing connection and then one port for each device you want to connect, using standard network cables. Make sure you have enough network cables of the length you need to reach, and preferably not make any tripping hazards.
The one I saw at canada computers was tp-link TL-SG105E although I think there are multiple choices available. They appear to be in stock at most locations.
They certainly also have lots of power bars both with and without surge protectors. Not sure which ones make most sense. At least for UPSs I have always had good luck with APC, so I suspect their power bars with surge protection are probably good too, but I have never used them.
-- Len Sorensen
From: Lennart Sorensen via talk <talk@gtalug.org>
Well canada computers has a 5 port gigabit ethernet switch for $30.
A five-port ethernet switch gives you 3 more ethernet ports than you started with: one of the five is taken by "upstream" and another one is takeen by the device that used to use it. I find that it is usually worth buying an eight-port switch: - it gives you 6 more ports than you started with - it usually costs only a little more space, money, power than a five-port switch Make sure you get a gigabit switch: "fast" means 100 Mb/s, which is slower for very little savings. Some people prefer metal cases over plastic. I think plastic is fine. Finding things on Amazon or Canada Computers is annoyingly difficult. Here's a plastic TP-Link 8-port gigabit switch that is currently on sale on Amazon.ca for $22.99. <https://www.amazon.ca/TP-Link-TL-SG1008D-1000Mbps-Switching-Capacity/dp/B001EVGIYG/ref=sr_1_3_sspa> I have not carefully shopped to come up with this.
On Thu, Aug 8, 2024 at 6:41 AM D. Hugh Redelmeier via talk <talk@gtalug.org> wrote:
From: Lennart Sorensen via talk <talk@gtalug.org>
Well canada computers has a 5 port gigabit ethernet switch for $30.
A five-port ethernet switch gives you 3 more ethernet ports than you started with: one of the five is taken by "upstream" and another one is takeen by the device that used to use it.
I find that it is usually worth buying an eight-port switch:
- it gives you 6 more ports than you started with
- it usually costs only a little more space, money, power than a five-port switch
Make sure you get a gigabit switch: "fast" means 100 Mb/s, which is slower for very little savings.
My experience was that I started with a 5 port (1 in and 4 out) switch some years ago. Found that I just needed more ports so moved to a 16 port. Then I had to upgrade that when I got a faster service from my ISP so I went to a 24 port gigabit capable switch. Why - - - well a couple printers, then there's the wife's computer(s) and then there are my testing machines and I've already blown around 10 ports. Don't have anything yet for the TV and and and - - - A 16 port switch would likely be a good start and they're running from in the low $70 to into a couple hundred $$$ depending upon branding. HTH
On Thu, 8 Aug 2024 at 10:06, o1bigtenor via talk <talk@gtalug.org> wrote:
Found that I just needed more ports so moved to a 16 port. Then I had to upgrade that when I got a faster service from my ISP so I went to a 24 port gigabit capable switch.
You know you can cascade switches instead of entirely replacing them with ones with more capacity? (There's a limit to how many can be put in series but that's rarely an issue in a home environment.) Plus, a possible advantage is that they can be distributed in various advantageous locations. I'd start with an 8 port gigabit switch and another and another as the need arises. -- Scott
On 8/8/24 10:14, Scott Allen via talk wrote:
There's a limit to how many can be put in series but that's rarely an issue in a home environment.
There is? Unlike IP, there's no hop limit. Or are you thinking of the half duplex days when there was a limit on cable segments, hubs and overall length? With switches, the concern is loops, which can cause problems and avoided with spanning tree protocol or similar.
Unlike IP, there's no hop limit. Or are you thinking of the half duplex days when there was a limit on cable segments, hubs and overall length?
You're right, I probably was thinking that. Anyway, even if it were the case, it still stands that it wouldn't have been an issue in a home environment. Thanks for correcting me James, -- Scott
On Thu, Aug 8, 2024 at 9:15 AM Scott Allen <mlxxxp@gmail.com> wrote:
On Thu, 8 Aug 2024 at 10:06, o1bigtenor via talk <talk@gtalug.org> wrote:
Found that I just needed more ports so moved to a 16 port. Then I had to upgrade that when I got a faster service from my ISP so I went to a 24 port gigabit capable switch.
You know you can cascade switches instead of entirely replacing them with ones with more capacity? (There's a limit to how many can be put in series but that's rarely an issue in a home environment.) Plus, a possible advantage is that they can be distributed in various advantageous locations.
I'd start with an 8 port gigabit switch and another and another as the need arises.
My reasoning for lesser numbers is I also have less points of possible failure. I would rather have a larger one in the office and then use 8 port models at other point to conglomerate to the next node point. HTH
On 2024-08-08 10:52, Scott Allen via talk wrote:
On Thu, 8 Aug 2024 at 10:45, o1bigtenor via talk <talk@gtalug.org> wrote:
My reasoning for lesser numbers is I also have less points of possible failure. And conversely, more cost if that larger point of failure fails.
It's always a trade off. I have a TV a settopbox and a soundsystem that all have rj45 ports. It was easier to just get a POE powered 8 port netgear switch and use a POE injector at my bigger switch. Otherwise I would have been running at least 2 more cables and then have the ceilings and walls to patch after. Switches are pretty reliable devices. Baring lighting strikes the only switches that I have seen go spontaneously bad are Cisco and I have some clients running 10 year old switch stacks. -- Alvin Starr || land: (647)478-6285 Netvel Inc. || home: (905)513-7688 alvin@netvel.net ||
Speaking of netgear, better in quality then the tp-link item I am considering? Kare On Thu, 8 Aug 2024, Alvin Starr via talk wrote:
On 2024-08-08 10:52, Scott Allen via talk wrote:
On Thu, 8 Aug 2024 at 10:45, o1bigtenor via talk <talk@gtalug.org> wrote:
My reasoning for lesser numbers is I also have less points of possible failure. And conversely, more cost if that larger point of failure fails.
It's always a trade off.
I have a TV a settopbox and a soundsystem that all have rj45 ports. It was easier to just get a POE powered 8 port netgear switch and use a POE injector at my bigger switch. Otherwise I would have been running at least 2 more cables and then have the ceilings and walls to patch after.
Switches are pretty reliable devices. Baring lighting strikes the only switches that I have seen go spontaneously bad are Cisco and I have some clients running 10 year old switch stacks.
-- Alvin Starr || land: (647)478-6285 Netvel Inc. || home: (905)513-7688 alvin@netvel.net ||
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On Thu, Aug 08, 2024 at 10:09:17PM -0400, Karen Lewellen via talk wrote:
Speaking of netgear, better in quality then the tp-link item I am considering?
I suspect they are pretty similar quality. For a simple switch it doesn't really matter much. I have used tp-link and d-link and various other ones over the years. -- Len Sorensen
A kind of on topic P.S.: I've got an old (support EOL) Linksys SRW2048 48 port gigabit managed switch here collecting dust. It was given to me because it was acting up, which turned out to be due to failing, bulging capacitors. I changed the capacitors "just because" and it seems to be working fine now but I have no use for it. If anyone wants to give it a good home, you can have it (with no warranty). If you're feeling generous you could compensate me for the cost of the capacitors; about $5, (they're not the highest of quality). Note that it contains 3 cooling fans which are rather loud and it's also fairly power hungry. http://sys2u.com/download/srw2048-ds.pdf -- Scott
On Thu, Aug 8, 2024 at 9:46 AM Scott Allen via talk <talk@gtalug.org> wrote:
A kind of on topic P.S.:
I've got an old (support EOL) Linksys SRW2048 48 port gigabit managed switch here collecting dust. It was given to me because it was acting up, which turned out to be due to failing, bulging capacitors. I changed the capacitors "just because" and it seems to be working fine now but I have no use for it.
If anyone wants to give it a good home, you can have it (with no warranty). If you're feeling generous you could compensate me for the cost of the capacitors; about $5, (they're not the highest of quality). Note that it contains 3 cooling fans which are rather loud and it's also fairly power hungry.
Might be interested - - - any way you could 'lift the hood' and check to see what modules are used for the switches? TIA
On Thu, 8 Aug 2024 at 11:25, o1bigtenor via talk <talk@gtalug.org> wrote:
Might be interested - - - any way you could 'lift the hood' and check to see what modules are used for the switches?
I can't say. They have glued on heat sinks. Photo, before changing the capacitors, here (for now): https://drive.google.com/file/d/1wGo7aQheoamc7OXknRkI9bL4cNPn8hM-/view?usp=s... -- Scott
On Thu, 8 Aug 2024 at 10:06, o1bigtenor via talk <talk@gtalug.org> wrote:
A 16 port switch would likely be a good start and they're running from in the low $70 to into a couple hundred $$$ depending upon branding.
The O.P., Karen, was asking for an ethernet "splitter" which likely meant she only needed 1 extra port. Even a <$30 8 port switch would be overkill. Are you really recommending a $70 or more 16 port switch for this situation? Another <$30 8 port switch would give 6 more ports if needed down the road. -- Scott
On Thu, Aug 8, 2024 at 10:19 AM Scott Allen <mlxxxp@gmail.com> wrote:
On Thu, 8 Aug 2024 at 10:06, o1bigtenor via talk <talk@gtalug.org> wrote:
A 16 port switch would likely be a good start and they're running from in the low $70 to into a couple hundred $$$ depending upon branding.
The O.P., Karen, was asking for an ethernet "splitter" which likely meant she only needed 1 extra port. Even a <$30 8 port switch would be overkill. Are you really recommending a $70 or more 16 port switch for this situation? Another <$30 8 port switch would give 6 more ports if needed down the road.
Well - - - I have gotten to call this particular concept the "mennonite disease" (due to t the area in which I live). This is when you save a little bit of money in year one (purchase) likely save little if not pay more for electricity in the intervening years. Then in year 5 the thing being worked at least hard if not to capacity dies, then you buy the larger sized item. If you had purchased the larger sized item in year one - - - your purchase price would be greater but because the machine is more likely to be loafing along - - - well year 10 comes along and the thing is still working (if not longer). I have been noticing this reluctance to the initial purchase of good tools for many years - - - there is another much older saying that goes along with it as well. Regards
I admit the 16 port idea made me giggle. I only have two hands and two ears, to use with any device at a time. even if I want to simply keep things connected, no matter if turned off, 8 ports should hold me for quite awhile. Kare On Thu, 8 Aug 2024, Scott Allen via talk wrote:
On Thu, 8 Aug 2024 at 10:06, o1bigtenor via talk <talk@gtalug.org> wrote:
A 16 port switch would likely be a good start and they're running from in the low $70 to into a couple hundred $$$ depending upon branding.
The O.P., Karen, was asking for an ethernet "splitter" which likely meant she only needed 1 extra port. Even a <$30 8 port switch would be overkill. Are you really recommending a $70 or more 16 port switch for this situation? Another <$30 8 port switch would give 6 more ports if needed down the road.
-- Scott --- Post to this mailing list talk@gtalug.org Unsubscribe from this mailing list https://gtalug.org/mailman/listinfo/talk
I have 3 of those scattered around the house https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00K4DS5KU?ref=emc_s_m_5_i_atc Same model but "metal" case I can vouch for them, it's been a few years and they are solid, except for when one of them had a hardcoded MAC of de:ad:be:ef:ca:fe which annoyed me enough to return it (they just sent me a new one, and now I have a dead cow coffee shop in my basement) On Thu, Aug 8, 2024 at 7:41 AM D. Hugh Redelmeier via talk <talk@gtalug.org> wrote:
From: Lennart Sorensen via talk <talk@gtalug.org>
Well canada computers has a 5 port gigabit ethernet switch for $30.
A five-port ethernet switch gives you 3 more ethernet ports than you started with: one of the five is taken by "upstream" and another one is takeen by the device that used to use it.
I find that it is usually worth buying an eight-port switch:
- it gives you 6 more ports than you started with
- it usually costs only a little more space, money, power than a five-port switch
Make sure you get a gigabit switch: "fast" means 100 Mb/s, which is slower for very little savings.
Some people prefer metal cases over plastic. I think plastic is fine.
Finding things on Amazon or Canada Computers is annoyingly difficult. Here's a plastic TP-Link 8-port gigabit switch that is currently on sale on Amazon.ca for $22.99.
< https://www.amazon.ca/TP-Link-TL-SG1008D-1000Mbps-Switching-Capacity/dp/B001...
I have not carefully shopped to come up with this. --- Post to this mailing list talk@gtalug.org Unsubscribe from this mailing list https://gtalug.org/mailman/listinfo/talk
Scott, What is the difference between managed and unmanaged? Thanks, Karen On Thu, 8 Aug 2024, Scott Allen via talk wrote:
On Thu, 8 Aug 2024 at 12:58, Nick Accad via talk <talk@gtalug.org> wrote:
Same model but "metal" case
Not the same model. The plastic case TL-SG1008D is unmanaged. The metal case TL-SG108E is managed.
-- Scott --- Post to this mailing list talk@gtalug.org Unsubscribe from this mailing list https://gtalug.org/mailman/listinfo/talk
On Thu, 8 Aug 2024 at 18:07, Karen Lewellen <klewellen@shellworld.net> wrote:
What is the difference between managed and unmanaged?
A managed switch provides an interface (web pages, SSH, and others) that let you configure, control and monitor it. For your needs, I doubt you would need and likely never use management features. -- Scott
Oh, I absolutely do not want a switch that requires management, or expects software of any kind. Most likely not inclusive in the design, I truly only seek a plug into my current dlink adapter model. I do not have direct access to the main internet terminal anyway. Thanks for the explanation! Kare On Thu, 8 Aug 2024, Scott Allen wrote:
On Thu, 8 Aug 2024 at 18:07, Karen Lewellen <klewellen@shellworld.net> wrote:
What is the difference between managed and unmanaged?
A managed switch provides an interface (web pages, SSH, and others) that let you configure, control and monitor it. For your needs, I doubt you would need and likely never use management features.
-- Scott
On Thu, Aug 08, 2024 at 06:07:46PM -0400, Karen Lewellen via talk wrote:
Scott, What is the difference between managed and unmanaged?
Managed switches usually allow creating vlans (virtual networks) to allow splitting different ports into different areas that don't see each other. Not something most people have a need for at home. -- Len Sorensen
On Thu, 8 Aug 2024 at 20:24, James Knott via talk <talk@gtalug.org> wrote:
On 8/8/24 20:22, Lennart Sorensen via talk wrote:
Not something most people have a need for at home.
I have one. It's for my guest WiFi. I use a VLAN between my pfSense router/firewall and access point.
And how does your using one change the fact that it's not something MOST people have a need for at home? -- Scott
On 8/7/24 00:31, Karen Lewellen via talk wrote:
Hi wise folks, I likely found my goal at amazon, say a tp-links unit, but if it is common enough where I could just dance into say a Canada computers, that would be preferred. Basically I seek a simple classic plug and play Ethernet splitter, say with 4 or 5 ports. something that does not require software, even fanless will work. I am hoping once I also find a quality power bar, to connect equipment that is on the other side of my home studio from my desk. Everything I personally use has standard Ethernet ports, with my hoping to set things up once, no removing cables and the like. Am I picturing this correctly, and is there a simple place I can get one inexpensively? Thanks, Karen
There is no such thing as an "Ethernet splitter". There have been some adapters that run 2 Ethernet connections over a single cable, by using only 2 pairs for each connection. However, that limits you to 100 Mb, when Gb is commonplace these days. What you want is a cheap Ethernet switch. A 5 port model should run somewhere around $30.
On 8/7/24 12:25, James Knott wrote:
On 8/7/24 00:31, Karen Lewellen via talk wrote:
Hi wise folks, I likely found my goal at amazon, say a tp-links unit, but if it is common enough where I could just dance into say a Canada computers, that would be preferred. Basically I seek a simple classic plug and play Ethernet splitter, say with 4 or 5 ports. something that does not require software, even fanless will work. I am hoping once I also find a quality power bar, to connect equipment that is on the other side of my home studio from my desk. Everything I personally use has standard Ethernet ports, with my hoping to set things up once, no removing cables and the like. Am I picturing this correctly, and is there a simple place I can get one inexpensively? Thanks, Karen
There is no such thing as an "Ethernet splitter". There have been some adapters that run 2 Ethernet connections over a single cable, by using only 2 pairs for each connection. However, that limits you to 100 Mb, when Gb is commonplace these days. What you want is a cheap Ethernet switch. A 5 port model should run somewhere around $30.
That should be cheap 5 port gigabit switch.
As others posted, what you want is "switch" with 3 ports (min). - You can get dedicated device that says "network switch", say 5-port, 8-port, 16-port, etc. - Or, you can get cheap router, which most likely be cheaper than switch. On 2024-08-07 00:31, Karen Lewellen via talk wrote:
Hi wise folks, I likely found my goal at amazon, say a tp-links unit, but if it is common enough where I could just dance into say a Canada computers, that would be preferred. Basically I seek a simple classic plug and play Ethernet splitter, say with 4 or 5 ports. something that does not require software, even fanless will work. I am hoping once I also find a quality power bar, to connect equipment that is on the other side of my home studio from my desk. Everything I personally use has standard Ethernet ports, with my hoping to set things up once, no removing cables and the like. Am I picturing this correctly, and is there a simple place I can get one inexpensively? Thanks, Karen
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On Thu, Aug 08, 2024 at 10:30:19PM -0400, William Park via talk wrote:
As others posted, what you want is "switch" with 3 ports (min). - You can get dedicated device that says "network switch", say 5-port, 8-port, 16-port, etc. - Or, you can get cheap router, which most likely be cheaper than switch.
I don't know if you can get a router for less than $30. And no point getting something more complicated than required. An unmanaged switch just does one thing when powered on and nothing else. -- Len Sorensen
On Thu, 8 Aug 2024, Lennart Sorensen via talk wrote:
I don't know if you can get a router for less than $30. And no point getting something more complicated than required. An unmanaged switch just does one thing when powered on and nothing else.
Yes, my soul's goal here is simplicity. Its going to be challenging enough finding a surge protector with a long enough cord to reach all the way across the room to power not only this unit, but any computers using those extra ports. Kare
-- Len Sorensen --- Post to this mailing list talk@gtalug.org Unsubscribe from this mailing list https://gtalug.org/mailman/listinfo/talk
On Thu, Aug 8, 2024 at 9:57 PM Karen Lewellen via talk <talk@gtalug.org> wrote:
On Thu, 8 Aug 2024, Lennart Sorensen via talk wrote:
I don't know if you can get a router for less than $30. And no point getting something more complicated than required. An unmanaged switch just does one thing when powered on and nothing else.
Yes, my soul's goal here is simplicity. Its going to be challenging enough finding a surge protector with a long enough cord to reach all the way across the room to power not only this unit, but any computers using those extra ports. Kare
This is not really a large problem. Buy whatever surge protector with whatever cord length you can find. Go to the commercial section of your local Home Depot or similar. Ask for a 12/3 extension cord long enough to reach an independant plug and your computing area. If that distance is more than 30 feet buy that cord as a 10/3 - - - you will NOT have a problem out to 100 ft from that wall plug. (I landed up buying a 10/3 cord (actually bought cable and ends and made it up myself) after I damaged the rotor on a large angle grinder I was working hard - - - I think rated draw was 17A.) HTH
On Fri, 9 Aug 2024 at 09:22, o1bigtenor via talk <talk@gtalug.org> wrote:
Ask for a 12/3 extension cord long enough to reach an independant plug and your computing area.
14/3 will be sufficient. The outlet will be a standard NEMA 5-15 rated 15A maximum and the house will be wired with 14 gauge wire on a 15A fuse or breaker. Therefore, it's highly unlikely that anything heavier than a 14 gauge extension cord will be required. (The lower the gauge, the thicker the wire.) -- Scott
...gentlemen, i do not speak Gage. 14 is apparently not feet. to what does the /3 refer? On Fri, 9 Aug 2024, Scott Allen via talk wrote:
On Fri, 9 Aug 2024 at 09:22, o1bigtenor via talk <talk@gtalug.org> wrote:
Ask for a 12/3 extension cord long enough to reach an independant plug and your computing area.
14/3 will be sufficient. The outlet will be a standard NEMA 5-15 rated 15A maximum and the house will be wired with 14 gauge wire on a 15A fuse or breaker. Therefore, it's highly unlikely that anything heavier than a 14 gauge extension cord will be required. (The lower the gauge, the thicker the wire.)
-- Scott --- Post to this mailing list talk@gtalug.org Unsubscribe from this mailing list https://gtalug.org/mailman/listinfo/talk
On Fri, 9 Aug 2024 at 10:55, Karen Lewellen <klewellen@shellworld.net> wrote:
14 is apparently not feet. to what does the /3 refer?
14 is the gauge (the diameter of each wire). The gauge number goes lower as the diameter increases. In house wiring the gauges usually used are: 14 for common 15 amp outlets. 12 for less common 20 amp outlets, normally found in kitchens. 10 for 30 amp electric clothes dryer outlets. 8 for 40 amp electric stove outlets. 6 for 50 amp electric stove outlets (not common) or electric vehicle charging outlets in the garage. /3 is the number of wires in the cord: A "hot" wire (the dangerous one if you were to touch it). A "neutral" wire that returns the current. It will be wired to "ground" at the electrical panel. A "ground" wire provided for a safe return path in case of an electrical fault. /2 designates your standard 2 prong cord, which has a hot and neutral but no ground. -- Scott
On Fri, Aug 9, 2024 at 10:12 AM Scott Allen via talk <talk@gtalug.org> wrote:
On Fri, 9 Aug 2024 at 10:55, Karen Lewellen <klewellen@shellworld.net> wrote:
14 is apparently not feet. to what does the /3 refer?
14 is the gauge (the diameter of each wire). The gauge number goes lower as the diameter increases. In house wiring the gauges usually used are:
14 for common 15 amp outlets. 12 for less common 20 amp outlets, normally found in kitchens. 10 for 30 amp electric clothes dryer outlets. 8 for 40 amp electric stove outlets. 6 for 50 amp electric stove outlets (not common) or electric vehicle charging outlets in the garage.
The above is great in theory but as soon as you start adding some length to those cables you better start using your wire size calculator. For a 100' cord off of a 15A plug you had better use larger than 14 ga if you want to limit your voltage drop to 1% the recommended wire size is 4 ga. Your chart says that should handle more than 50 A but your chart also does NOT include anything for length of run which becomes the more important the closer to the amperage rating of the circuit the load becomes. Ignore to your own cost and peril.
/3 is the number of wires in the cord:
A "hot" wire (the dangerous one if you were to touch it). A "neutral" wire that returns the current. It will be wired to "ground" at the electrical panel. A "ground" wire provided for a safe return path in case of an electrical fault.
/2 designates your standard 2 prong cord, which has a hot and neutral but no ground.
HTH
On Fri, 9 Aug 2024 at 12:20, o1bigtenor via talk <talk@gtalug.org> wrote:
For a 100' cord off of a 15A plug you had better use larger than 14 ga if you want to limit your voltage drop to 1%
We are discussing a cord to go from one side of a small office to another and run some computer equipment. I doubt it will be 100 feet or draw something close to 15A. -- Scott
well. I now have dedicated circuits, two of them, one for my office and one for my family room where the larger production related stuff is set up. In the family room I have extension cords that are intended for studio professional use, worse case I could take one of them with me. Given amazon Canada has now rigged the site so one cannot refuse prime if using allot of adaptive technology I am likely going to need a store visit regardless..and the tp-links is now $26 laughs. If I get an apc serge protector with six feet, and a six or even 8 foot extension hopefully I will be fine. the problem with UPS units is, unless they talk, I cannot monitor activity at all. Kare On Fri, 9 Aug 2024, o1bigtenor via talk wrote:
On Fri, Aug 9, 2024 at 10:12 AM Scott Allen via talk <talk@gtalug.org> wrote:
On Fri, 9 Aug 2024 at 10:55, Karen Lewellen <klewellen@shellworld.net> wrote:
14 is apparently not feet. to what does the /3 refer?
14 is the gauge (the diameter of each wire). The gauge number goes lower as the diameter increases. In house wiring the gauges usually used are:
14 for common 15 amp outlets. 12 for less common 20 amp outlets, normally found in kitchens. 10 for 30 amp electric clothes dryer outlets. 8 for 40 amp electric stove outlets. 6 for 50 amp electric stove outlets (not common) or electric vehicle charging outlets in the garage.
The above is great in theory but as soon as you start adding some length to those cables you better start using your wire size calculator. For a 100' cord off of a 15A plug you had better use larger than 14 ga if you want to limit your voltage drop to 1% the recommended wire size is 4 ga. Your chart says that should handle more than 50 A but your chart also does NOT include anything for length of run which becomes the more important the closer to the amperage rating of the circuit the load becomes. Ignore to your own cost and peril.
/3 is the number of wires in the cord:
A "hot" wire (the dangerous one if you were to touch it). A "neutral" wire that returns the current. It will be wired to "ground" at the electrical panel. A "ground" wire provided for a safe return path in case of an electrical fault.
/2 designates your standard 2 prong cord, which has a hot and neutral but no ground.
HTH
On Fri, 9 Aug 2024 at 14:35, Karen Lewellen via talk <talk@gtalug.org> wrote:
the problem with UPS units is, unless they talk, I cannot monitor activity at all.
A UPS will emit beeps, typically after every 30 seconds or so, when the mains go down and it is providing standby power. Sometimes they will emit other beep patterns to indicate low battery, battery replacement required, equipment failure, etc. -- Scott
On Fri, 9 Aug 2024 at 14:35, Karen Lewellen via talk <talk@gtalug.org> wrote:
If I get an apc serge protector with six feet, and a six or even 8 foot extension hopefully I will be fine.
Home Depot sells a 9 foot 14/3 extension cord for $20. https://www.homedepot.ca/product/hdx-9-ft-14-gauge-15-amps-indoor-medium-dut... -- Scott
Sorry, read this again..I think my fuses may be 12a, had to involve the authorities, in order to get my landlord to fix things. it was a mess, so I want a quality choice to compensate for my kind but clueless where his hydro is concerned fuse. My curling iron threw the fuse once. Karen On Fri, 9 Aug 2024, Scott Allen via talk wrote:
On Fri, 9 Aug 2024 at 09:22, o1bigtenor via talk <talk@gtalug.org> wrote:
Ask for a 12/3 extension cord long enough to reach an independant plug and your computing area.
14/3 will be sufficient. The outlet will be a standard NEMA 5-15 rated 15A maximum and the house will be wired with 14 gauge wire on a 15A fuse or breaker. Therefore, it's highly unlikely that anything heavier than a 14 gauge extension cord will be required. (The lower the gauge, the thicker the wire.)
-- Scott --- Post to this mailing list talk@gtalug.org Unsubscribe from this mailing list https://gtalug.org/mailman/listinfo/talk
On Fri, 9 Aug 2024 at 10:59, Karen Lewellen <klewellen@shellworld.net> wrote:
Sorry, read this again..I think my fuses may be 12a
If it's a fuse, it will likely be either 15A or 20A. I've never seen a 12A fuse. If it's an old house, it might be that thinner wiring was used that would only be rated for 12A by today's standards. If you're going to use an extension cord, although I said a 14/3 (14 gauge, 3 prong) one would likely be sufficient, for ease of mind you could get a 12/3 one. A 12/3 won't be too much more expensive than a 14/3 of the same length. -- Scott
Thanks for the explanation. What I am not understanding is how to choose to insure the greatest protection . In this case will I have an issue if I choose a 14 but these are 12 a items? I understand the 3 refers to grounded plugs which is what I want. On Fri, 9 Aug 2024, Scott Allen wrote:
On Fri, 9 Aug 2024 at 10:59, Karen Lewellen <klewellen@shellworld.net> wrote:
Sorry, read this again..I think my fuses may be 12a
If it's a fuse, it will likely be either 15A or 20A. I've never seen a 12A fuse. If it's an old house, it might be that thinner wiring was used that would only be rated for 12A by today's standards.
If you're going to use an extension cord, although I said a 14/3 (14 gauge, 3 prong) one would likely be sufficient, for ease of mind you could get a 12/3 one. A 12/3 won't be too much more expensive than a 14/3 of the same length.
-- Scott
On Fri, 9 Aug 2024 at 14:15, Karen Lewellen <klewellen@shellworld.net> wrote:
In this case will I have an issue if I choose a 14 but these are 12 a items?
As I've said 14/3 designates 14 gauge wire with 3 conductors. 12/3 designates 12 gauge wire also with 3 conductors. The gauge numbers don't specify the amps but are related. 12 gauge is larger diameter than 14 gauge. 12 gauge will be able to safely handle more current than 14 gauge. However, a 12 gauge cord will be larger, heavier and likely more expensive than a 14 gauge cord of the same length. As long as you can afford the extra cost and the thickness of the cord doesn't present any problems with where it will be placed, it's better to go with a 12 gauge cord than a 14 gauge cord. But, depending on the total power it needs to provide, a 14 gauge cord may be fine. Knowing the required length of the cord and the maximum power needed for the equipment it would supply would help. -- Scott
sorry, but this is rather confusing. And it is also more complex, the Jules <spelling> factor plays a role too. For example I tried to order an amazon basics surge protector, worst money spent in recent memory, because the power capacity was so low I could not power the items in this room, or so much as a stereo safely. reading packing in store is a unique challenge, so is getting human assistance in a home depot store..with Canadian tire and I still awaiting a hearing for a legal matter best not discussed on list. More than likely this is yet another reason to visit a Canada Computers in person. the tp-links item is in my amazon Canada cart, but if I am doing anything I am visiting a good business in person, referencing the APC surge protector I have in this office and getting comparative wisdom. At the end this protector will be managing the switch, a studio control surface, the very large older mac computer, its USB external drive, a full sized piano keyboard, and I still want to use at least one if not two other machines. will everything be running at the same time? no. is it possible three or four items will be running at the same time? yes. how hydro works in my apartment can be creative. I do have dedicated circuits in this office, but still. Kare..who is likely being paranoid, but given I just got my main computer rescued after almost a year of issues, well. laughs. On Fri, 9 Aug 2024, o1bigtenor wrote:
On Thu, Aug 8, 2024 at 9:57 PM Karen Lewellen via talk <talk@gtalug.org> wrote:
On Thu, 8 Aug 2024, Lennart Sorensen via talk wrote:
I don't know if you can get a router for less than $30. And no point getting something more complicated than required. An unmanaged switch just does one thing when powered on and nothing else.
Yes, my soul's goal here is simplicity. Its going to be challenging enough finding a surge protector with a long enough cord to reach all the way across the room to power not only this unit, but any computers using those extra ports. Kare
This is not really a large problem.
Buy whatever surge protector with whatever cord length you can find. Go to the commercial section of your local Home Depot or similar. Ask for a 12/3 extension cord long enough to reach an independant plug and your computing area. If that distance is more than 30 feet buy that cord as a 10/3 - - - you will NOT have a problem out to 100 ft from that wall plug. (I landed up buying a 10/3 cord (actually bought cable and ends and made it up myself) after I damaged the rotor on a large angle grinder I was working hard - - - I think rated draw was 17A.)
HTH
On Fri, 9 Aug 2024 at 10:52, Karen Lewellen via talk <talk@gtalug.org> wrote:
Kare..who is likely being paranoid, but given I just got my main computer rescued after almost a year of issues, well. laughs.
If you're concerned about protecting your equipment in a house with dubious wiring, perhaps you should be revisiting previous discussions about using an uninterruptible power supply (UPS) instead of just a surge protector. A UPS will provide surge protection as well as battery backup power for a short time if the mains power fails. I have a number of various size APC UPSs here that are working but need new batteries. You're welcome to one of them if you want to buy a battery for it (about $30 to $40). Note that UPS batteries generally only last about 3 to 5 years and then need to be replaced. -- Scott
On 8/8/24 22:30, William Park via talk wrote:
As others posted, what you want is "switch" with 3 ports (min)
Is there such a thing? The smallest I've seen is 5 ports.
Or, you can get cheap router, which most likely be cheaper than switch.
Or not. Unless there's a need for the routing function, you're adding complexity, which is the one thing she doesn't need. Switches are cheap. As mentioned, they start in the vicinity of $30, though there may be some cheaper.
Hi all, Visited Canada Computers this afternoon. Largely positive, although I was told by an obviously young sales person that USB keyboard adapter do not exist? If Canada computers actually sells them would love a link. For this reason too I am sharing the plug and play solution I bought, but am unsure of based on our detailed conversation. Before I open this box, is that what I need? Subject: Canada Computers TP-Link SG1008D TP-Link TL-SG1008D https://www.canadacomputers.com/product_info.php?cPath=27_1045_6249&item_id =034281 With appreciation, Karen On Wed, 7 Aug 2024, Karen Lewellen via talk wrote:
Hi wise folks, I likely found my goal at amazon, say a tp-links unit, but if it is common enough where I could just dance into say a Canada computers, that would be preferred. Basically I seek a simple classic plug and play Ethernet splitter, say with 4 or 5 ports. something that does not require software, even fanless will work. I am hoping once I also find a quality power bar, to connect equipment that is on the other side of my home studio from my desk. Everything I personally use has standard Ethernet ports, with my hoping to set things up once, no removing cables and the like. Am I picturing this correctly, and is there a simple place I can get one inexpensively? Thanks, Karen
--- Post to this mailing list talk@gtalug.org Unsubscribe from this mailing list https://gtalug.org/mailman/listinfo/talk
On Tue, 22 Oct 2024 at 20:11, Karen Lewellen via talk <talk@gtalug.org> wrote:
although I was told by an obviously young sales person that USB keyboard adapter do not exist?
What do you mean by USB keyboard adapter? Other type (e.g. PS/2) keyboard to computer USB port or USB keyboard to other type computer keyboard port?
Before I open this box, is that what I need?
Yes, that is what you need. -- Scott
Hi Scott, will answer in context.
What do you mean by USB keyboard adapter? Other type (e.g. PS/2) keyboard to computer USB port or USB keyboard to other type computer keyboard port?
If I am picturing this correctly, I imagine what I seek is an adapter with a place for the USB keyboard plug on one end, and a ps/2 plug on the other. allowing me to plug the current IBM like mechanical keyboard with a USB plug into the likely ps/2 port on the back of my machine. Is that more clear?
Before I open this box, is that what I need?
Yes, that is what you need.
Yippee! now to learn how well it works. Thanks Scott, and everyone. Karen
On Tue, Oct 22, 2024 at 08:11:43PM -0400, Karen Lewellen via talk wrote:
Hi all, Visited Canada Computers this afternoon. Largely positive, although I was told by an obviously young sales person that USB keyboard adapter do not exist?
If Canada computers actually sells them would love a link.
If you mean allowing a USB keyboard to be used on a machine that has a PS/2 keyboard port then I do not expect Canada Computers would sell that. I am pretty sure they exist, but the demand would be extremely low and hence it is a specialy item. There is a project called hidman that appears to do it. I just can't find anyone selling them. Some keyboards with USB plugs also do PS/2 protocol and just need a simple plug adapter, but that is not the case for all keybboards. -- Len Sorensen
Hi, its the adapter I seek, not the keyboard..I have a fine USB keyboard I am using right now. My hope is that, with an adapter, I can free up the USB port currently servicing said keyboard though. On Tue, 22 Oct 2024, Lennart Sorensen wrote:
On Tue, Oct 22, 2024 at 08:11:43PM -0400, Karen Lewellen via talk wrote:
Hi all, Visited Canada Computers this afternoon. Largely positive, although I was told by an obviously young sales person that USB keyboard adapter do not exist?
If Canada computers actually sells them would love a link.
If you mean allowing a USB keyboard to be used on a machine that has a PS/2 keyboard port then I do not expect Canada Computers would sell that. I am pretty sure they exist, but the demand would be extremely low and hence it is a specialy item.
There is a project called hidman that appears to do it. I just can't find anyone selling them.
Some keyboards with USB plugs also do PS/2 protocol and just need a simple plug adapter, but that is not the case for all keybboards.
-- Len Sorensen
On Tue, Oct 22, 2024 at 7:57 PM Karen Lewellen via talk <talk@gtalug.org> wrote:
Hi, its the adapter I seek, not the keyboard..I have a fine USB keyboard I am using right now. My hope is that, with an adapter, I can free up the USB port currently servicing said keyboard though.
If the concern is just more USB ports, would something like https://www.amazon.ca/Anker-4-Port-Macbook-Surface-Notebook/dp/B00XMD7KPU/?t... not help out there? Dhaval
You folks are the best. I realize I should have avoided the tangent. My serious question is about the t-links Ethernet item. I am wondering if it matches the ones discussed for my plug and play unmanaged proper gigabytes solutions? the goal is using my keyboard in the keyboard port on my computer personally, but I am far more concerned about the wisdom of this item linked. Cheers, Karen On Tue, 22 Oct 2024, Dhaval Giani wrote:
On Tue, Oct 22, 2024 at 7:57 PM Karen Lewellen via talk <talk@gtalug.org> wrote:
Hi, its the adapter I seek, not the keyboard..I have a fine USB keyboard I am using right now. My hope is that, with an adapter, I can free up the USB port currently servicing said keyboard though.
If the concern is just more USB ports, would something like https://www.amazon.ca/Anker-4-Port-Macbook-Surface-Notebook/dp/B00XMD7KPU/?t... not help out there?
Dhaval
On Wed, Oct 23, 2024 at 01:14:55AM -0400, Karen Lewellen via talk wrote:
You folks are the best. I realize I should have avoided the tangent. My serious question is about the t-links Ethernet item. I am wondering if it matches the ones discussed for my plug and play unmanaged proper gigabytes solutions?
That t-links looks perfect.
the goal is using my keyboard in the keyboard port on my computer personally, but I am far more concerned about the wisdom of this item linked.
Yes a USB hub is a much simpler way to free up USB ports than trying to convert a USB keyboard to PS/2 for sure. -- Len Sorensen
participants (10)
-
Alvin Starr -
D. Hugh Redelmeier -
Dhaval Giani -
James Knott -
Karen Lewellen -
Lennart Sorensen -
Nick Accad -
o1bigtenor -
Scott Allen -
William Park